Pine & Isanti County Ext. Update

November 2024

It may be shocking after the amount of rain we experienced the spring and summer, but we are now experiencing a drought again. I have had many calls early this fall about dead or dying trees and other plants. Plants are having a tough time with barely any snow last winter, turning into unbelievably soggy conditions, and flipping back to extreme drought once more. All this change in one year after several years of persistent drought! The warmer temperatures, where October felt more like September, did not do any favors either.

Fungal diseases were more prevalent this year too. The plants began to recover from the previous drought years, but soon found themselves waterlogged, making it easier for fungal diseases to spread and take up residence in the already stressed plants. Birch trees have especially been susceptible to the drastic changes in moisture level and temperatures, losing leaves early and even dying.

To keep your remaining plants healthy, water them frequently before frost. Read more about watering trees and shrubs here!

~Katie Hagen

Bats on the Brink

The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service recently reclassified the northern long-eared bat (Myotis septentrionalis) as endangered under the Endangered Species Act (ESA). The species is facing a rapid decline in population due to the impacts of white-nose syndrome, an invasive fungus that most visibly grows on bat noses. What can you do to help bats? Read more here!

Fall Leaf Mulching for Your Lawn

Transplanting Trees

Most deciduous trees are successfully transplanted in early spring, before growth begins, and late fall, after the leaves drop. Evergreens in Minnesota should be transplanted in early spring or early fall to establish root systems before the growing season.

There are many considerations for transplanting a tree - type of tree, current vs. proposed site conditions, digging and planting techniques, and tree care and maintenance. Choosing and knowing what type of tree that will be transplanted will help you decide on an ideal location. The location should match the tree's preferred habitat, which includes amount of sunlight, soil type, moisture levels, and space. Maintaining a tree after planting also includes proper mulching, watering, fertilizing, pruning, and winter care. Keeping all these things in the forefront of your mind will keep your newly transplanted trees healthy longer.

Before digging up the tree that is to be transplanted, consider the size of the root systems. The root system is proportionate to the diameter of the truck and size of the canopy. For example, a tree that is 7 feet tall and has a 2 inch trunk diameter needs to be dug around the trunk with a minimum diameter of 2 feet. To minimize damage and improve the trees' chance of survival, dig and move trees with balls of soil adhering to portions of their root systems.

When digging a hole in the new location, again consider the size of the root system. Dig the hole two to three times the width of the root ball. Also make sure any protruding roots from the ball are facing downward or sloping at a downward angle. Any root that goes down and comes back up is considered a J-root. J-roots cause issues as the tree grows, ultimately growing around the tree and strangling it, causing the tree to die. Dig the hole deeper if there are roots reaching the bottom of the hole, then coming back up towards the surface.

The soil should be moist when transplanting a tree, so that the tree can overcome some initial stress. It also encourages root growth to establish itself in this new location. Watering should be done frequently at a slow trickle at the base of the plant until the soil is thoroughly soaked. Once a week (before freezing in the late fall) apply 5-7 gallons of water to the newly transplanted tree. Applying a 2-3 inch layer of mulch at a 6-foot diameter will help preserve moisture too. Do not use plastic under the mulch layer to avoid suffocating the tree roots.

Winter damages can occur, so be prepared to combat that after transplanting. Sunscald can be limited by wrapping thin-barked, young trees in a commercial tree wrap. Remove the wrap in spring. Burlap placed over an evergreen to protect it from wind and sun on the south, west, and windward side of the tree can help with winter browning. Lastly, animals, such as mice, rabbits, and deer can cause damage to both deciduous and coniferous trees. The commercial wrap mentioned earlier will protect the trunk of the tree from mice and rabbit eating damage, but deer prefer to eat the canopy of the trees. Applying a repellent may be practical, otherwise use fencing that is 6 feet in height. This tall height of the fence will limit a deer's ability to reach over the fence, down to the tree limbs to browse when standing on the increasing height of the fallen snow.

Read more about Planting and Transplanting Trees & Shrubs

Katie Hagen

Ag Production, Hort & Natural Resources Extension Educator

Email: hagen@umn.edu

UM Ext Isanti County

555 18th Ave. SW

Cambridge, MN 55008

763-689-8254

UM Ext Pine County, County Courthouse

635 Northridge Dr NW #280

Pine City, MN 55063

320-591-1662

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